Waverley’s 2023 in Pictures – 76 Images Capturing her 76th Year
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2023 saw a dramatic turnaround in the fortunes of Paddle Steamer Waverley. Less than 3 weeks into the year and a public appeal was launched to raise £180,000 towards a £250,000 shortfall to afford the costs associated with her annual dry docking and recommissioning for another season.
By the close of the season in October over 157,000 passenger journeys had generated record revenues with no sailings lost across the entire season due to technical issues. Sufficient income was earned to meet the annual maintenance cost of the current winter refit, baring any unexpected additional works.
Waverley embarked passengers at 60 ports and piers around the UK with over 30% of sailings sold out in advance or with sections of a day’s sailing fully booked. The ship visited all four countries in the UK across a five day period – has this ever been achieved by a paddle steamer previously?
Sir Tim Laurence, husband of Her Royal Highness the Princess Royal, accepted an invitation to become Patron for Waverley Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. having visited the ship two days before she entered service back in May. Sir Tim later enjoyed an evening cruise from Gravesend to London in early October and was impressed by the ship and her unique charm.
Several calling points which have been absent from the timetables for decades were re-established including Craignure, Troon, Tenby, Portishead and Ipswich. Shoreham-by-sea and Warrenpoint saw Waverley offering a sailing for the first time.
The following 76 images give a flavour of the past year in the career of the remarkable Paddle Steamer Waverley.
The Dry Dock 2023 Appeal was launched on 19th January to raise £180,000 from public donations towards the annual dry docking and re-commissioning costs ahead of the new season. The Appeal target was reached by April. In addition to the £180,000 raised from individuals over £30,000 was raised in Gift Aid with other contributions from the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society and Friends of Waverley.
Part of the winter maintenance tasks saw all grease cups on the main engine taken ashore for cleaning and repairing – there are over 40 across the engine.
Deck replacement is now a regular winter task – this temporary view allowed the funnels to be seen from inside the disabled toilet!
Several Hard Hat Tours were undertaken in the opening months of 2023 giving small groups the opportunity to see a very different aspect of Waverley. The tours have proven popular again with all five tours in early 2024 now sold out.
At the AGM of the Tighnabruaich Pier Association back in early February a cheque for £5,000 was given to Waverley towards the Dry Dock 2023 Appeal. Tighnabruaich Pier Association has given significant sums to Waverley over the past five years remarking that without Waverley the pier has no future.
Waverley departs Glasgow bound for Greenock and her annual dry docking. This was made possible thanks to the donations received from several thousand individuals.
Waverley having just entered the Garvel Dry Dock with one of the Western Ferries vessels ahead of her. During the docking and subsequent berthing in the adjacent James Watt Dock over £250,000 was spent.
Cutting out distorted steel work in the starboard paddlebox.
The new support bracket steel work in the aft starboard paddlebox prior to the new spring beam being installed.
Once the steel was prepared the new spring beam – a piece of 26 feet long greenheart timber – was installed. The total cost of this work exceeded £70,000.
Everyone who donated to the Dry Dock 2023 Appeal was automatically entered into a draw to win a place to visit Waverley in dry dock and have the opportunity to see underneath her. This is the group pictured prior to seeing the paddler out the water.
Once Waverley was refloated she was berthed in the James Watt Dock for further works to be completed – this included the repainting of both funnels and the replacement of the funnel stay wires. The masking tape is visible with painting in progress.
Waverley at anchor near Helensburgh during sea trials with the crew undertaking emergency drills – note that both rescue boats have been launched with davits swung out.
Sir Tim Laurence visited the ship in Glasgow just before she entered service. Sir Tim met some of the Company Directors and all the ship’s crew. His appointment as Patron was then announced in late June.
Day one of the 2023 season as Waverley awaits departure time. Press and media coverage was strong from the start of the season with the news story centred on 2023 being the most ambitious season in over a decade – it didn’t disappoint.
Waverley arrives at Kennacraig for the very first time while on route to Oban on Tuesday 23rd May. A brief call is required between Campbeltown and Oban to comply with a condition on Waverley’s passenger certificate where she is limited to 70 nautical miles on any one sea passage with passengers.
Waverley arriving at Tobermory Pier on the Isle of Mull with over 200 school children waiting for the ship. The local schools had been invited on for the short cruise to Ardnamurchan.
A busy scene at Kyle of Lochalsh’s Railway Pier as Waverley arrived to board passengers for an evening cruise under the Skye Bridge and into Loch Kishorn and Loch Carron. Remarkably almost 500 passengers enjoyed the unique evening cruise. In 2023 Kyle of Lochalsh produced record passenger numbers thanks to a new marketing initiative with all local residents receiving a brochure.
Waverley pictured at Gairloch with the new Waverley Gin which has been produced by Isle of Cumbrae Distillers. To date over £3,000 has been donated by the distillers towards Waverley. Drink Gin and support Waverley! (In moderation.)
Despite it’s rather remote location Gairloch has always been a valuable boarding point and in 2023 it produced over 320 passengers for an afternoon cruise to Loch Torridon and Upper Loch Torridon.
Waverley passes Eilean Donan Castle having just departed Loch Duich.
Waverley called at Craignure on the Isle of Mull for the first time since the early 1980s. She picked up just under 100 passengers for a capacity sailing to Corryvreckan Whirlpool.
Waverley rests at Inverie on Spring Bank Holiday Monday May 29th while passengers enjoy a short stroll ashore at the remote location – only accessible by sea.
Waverley departs Oban bound for Warrenpoint having disembarked her passengers on the evening on Monday 29th May. Occasionally Waverley will travel overnight to reposition for a sailing the following day.
Waverley berthed in Warrenpoint. The cruise from Warrenpoint generated significant attention with hundreds lining the dockside streets to watch the ship’s departure for her evening cruise.
Captain Dominic McCall (far left) and Waverley Excursions Chairman, Scott Johnson (far right), accept presentation plaques from the team at Warrenpoint Port to mark Waverley’s first ever passenger sailing from the port. Tickets for this sailing sold out in less than 48 hours.
Waverley’s first arrival at Ilfracombe in 2023 was on the early evening of Thursday 31st May to berth without passengers on the inside berth (Stone Bench). The following day saw trial berthings at Clevedon and Penarth, the later at which she berthed six times to enable a pilotage exemption to be granted.
A passenger at Ilfracombe dressed as Britannia for her cruise on Waverley. Pictured with Relief Master, James Harris (left), 2nd Officer Abdo Sbello and Purser Andrew Comrie (right).
Waverley pictured in Cardiff Docks prior to her first passenger sailing on the Bristol Channel on 2nd June. In 2023 Waverley used Avonmouth, Cardiff and Swansea Docks while on the Bristol Channel. An overnight berthing within the docks is welcomed by crew as the alternative is to anchor.
Running repairs throughout the season are to be expected. This image show belting repairs being carried out in Avonmouth Docks by Sharpness Shipyard. In 2023 renewals and repairs during the season totalled just under £150,000.
Waverley backs away from Portishead on 2nd June, she required a second attempt to berth on this occasion with many ashore watching the historic moment. Friday 2nd June was Waverley’s first passenger sailing on the Bristol Channel since 2018. The sailing attracted just under 1,400 passengers across the day producing a total revenue of just under £70,000.
Waverley carried over 600 to Lundy Island in early June in stunning conditions. Unfortunately owing to strong easterly winds one sailing to Lundy was cancelled. Across the whole 2023 season only three sailings were cancelled completely due to weather.
Alongside at Ilfracombe on the outer low water berth. Ilfracombe has long been a popular destination for sailings from South Wales and Somerset.
Part of the planning for Waverley’s operation each season must take into account the need to refuel the ship approximately every three days. Fuelling is particularly challenging on the Bristol Channel given the few locations where fuel can be taken. On some occasions in 2023 fuel was taken at Ilfracombe while passengers were ashore. When tide dictates Waverley using the east berth at low water the fuel tanker must be small enough to drive down to the berth as shown in this image.
Waverley approaches Weston-Super-Mare for the first time in several years on Wednesday 7th June for her cruise to Penarth before heading down Channel to Ilfracombe.
Waverley departs Weston having disembarked her passengers. This image highlights how a pleasure steamer with origins well within the previous century is captured by today’s more modern world.
Minehead provides the opportunity for Waverley passengers to enjoy a trip on the West Somerset Railway. In 2023 all joint trips on Waverley and the WSR were fully booked.
Waverley’s visit to Tenby created a media frenzy with the ship’s return to the picturesque harbour picked up across Wales and beyond. Tickets for the evening cruise from Tenby to Milford Haven were in high demand.
Thousands witnessed Waverley’s arrival in Tenby with onlookers taking various advantage points on the beach, streets and surrounding hillside.
Waverley arriving in Liverpool ahead of her two days of sold out sailings to Llandudno. Unfortunately the figure head of Edward Waverley on the port paddlebox didn’t survive the overnight passage from Milford Haven to north Wales – did anyone spot Edward was missing and then reappeared facing aft for the remainder of the 2023 season?
With a capacity crowd on board Waverley arrives at the Queen of Welsh resorts (Llandudno). Waverley’s return to Llandudno was a major feature in the local press which created exceptional demand for tickets. Both sailings were sold out in a matter of hours.
The artwork promoting the Pirates, Princesses and Superheroes sailings which took place in July 2023. These cruises have proven very popular in the past two seasons with many families stepping aboard. During a Pirates, Princesses and Superheroes sailing children will have the opportunity to meet the captain, take part in a treasurer hunt and enjoy the entertainment provided.
Waverley about to board a capacity crowd at Ayr in July. The queue of passengers waiting to board is visible down the harbour. Over the past two seasons Waverley has successfully re-established herself at the South Ayrshire town with excellent support from Associated British Ports.
A cruise round Ailsa Craig remains as popular are ever, not surprising since there is no better way to view the Craig than from the decks of a steamer.
The fan boards for Monday 14th August for what turned out to be an excellent cruise round the Isle of Arran. The cruise was initially not selling well so a press release was issued highlighting the rare opportunity to cruise round the island, all tickets were then sold.
Waverley sailing round Arran in glorious conditions.
Steaming round the Isle of Wight remains the most popular cruise on the South Coast with Waverley giving stunning views of the island’s coastline.
Waverley berthed at Portsmouth Harbour Station Pier under the shadow of the Spinnaker Tower. Portsmouth is a vital pick up point on the South Coast programme with loadings frequently in excess of 300 on each call.
Once again Serco tugs in Portsmouth Harbour offered to assist in turning Waverley at no cost. While the ship could make a several point turn if needed it does take time and blocks other shipping movements in the very busy harbour. A gentle push on the bow and Waverley swings in just a few minutes.
Waverley will often meet cruise ships in Southampton. In this image Waverley is about to pass Cunard’s famous Queen Mary 2.
Waverley attended the Bournemouth Air Festival joining Steamship Shieldhall at anchor to watch the event which included a display by the Red Arrows.
A classic view of a paddle steamer arriving at Swanage Pier with much paddle wash being created to bring the steamer to a stop. During Waverley’s visits to Swanage there is often a passenger exchange of around 500.
In 2023 Waverley returned to Ryde for the first time in several years, this was possible thanks to support from Wightlink. The calls proved popular as both a destination with link to the Isle of Wight Steam Railway and as a boarding point.
Waverley met Steamship Shieldhall for a special sailing off the Needles and into the Solent during early September. This provided an opportunity to raise the profile of the two largest operating passenger steamships in the UK. Images of both ships have since appeared in national press and several publications.
The image which caught the attention of the media with Waverley and Shieldhall steaming together towards the Isle of Wight.
Having cruised past the Needles Rocks and Lighthouse Waverley heads for Freshwater Bay off the Isle of Wight.
The long queue of passengers round the car park and into the station building shows just how popular Waverley was from Ryde in 2023.
Waverley in Shoreham for her first ever sailing from the West Sussex port. Like many others during the 2023 season this sailing sold out in advance. The visit generated much media coverage with BBC South East TV news running a feature.
Waverley at Yarmouth Pier as the Wightlink ferry from Lymington arrives to berth in the harbour. Waverley Excursions relationship with Wightlink developed further in 2023 with the ferry company offering much to assist Waverley at Ryde and Portsmouth.
Showing the level of affection for Waverley in Essex with a knitted Waverley adorning the post-box on Southend Pier. The knitted Waverley has since been donated to the PSPS archive. Given Southend Pier was awarded Pier of the Year by the National Piers Society a special sailing was offered in conjunction with the Society to kick start the Thames sailings in 2023.
Waverley makes for an impressive sight as she sails down the River Orwell having passed under the Orwell Bridge. The return to Ipswich in 2023 proved a great success with both sailings selling out.
Waverley berthed at Gravesend Pier as a new dawn breaks over the lower Thames. Gravesend is a vital overnight berth where the ship can be stored and receive bunkers by barge.
Waverley boarding passengers at Southwold pier for the sailing to London. Interest in sailing from Southwold is high with it remaining one of the most enquired about departure points.
Waverley met Steam Tug Challenge at the Thames Forts on two occasions in 2023. Sailings to the Thames Forts remain popular with Waverley providing close up views of the historic structures installed during World War II.
Waverley paddles slowly past some of the Forts on Sunday 8th October in ideal conditions.
An image of Waverley as she heads up the “Twinkling Thames”. Almost all of Waverley’s evening cruises upriver to London in 2023 were sold out.
A sight which creates much excitement with passengers aboard Waverley as she makes her approach to Tower Bridge. The Bridge must be booked at least 24 hours in advance to lift although Waverley Excursions will book the lifts before the timetable is published. On one occasion in 2023 a booked bridge lift was cancelled by Tower Bridge owing to a fault.
Waverley waits in the Pool of London with the skyline dominated by the modern City of London. Just astern of Waverley is Berth D at Tower Pier which she uses.
Waverley berthed at London Tower Pier. In 2023 changes to the pier resulted in Waverley berthing in a such a way to enable all other berths to be utilised while she was alongside. In past years Waverley has occupied more than one berth when alongside.
Waverley sweeps into Southend on Sunday 8th October with a capacity loading and temperatures in the 20s.
Waverley berthed in Plymouth on 10th October 2023 – a sign of things to come in 2024.
It is essential that Waverley has wide appeal across all ages to ensure she can attract sufficient passengers. In an attempt to ensure younger generations travel on the ship many kids fares were just £1 in 2023.
During the 2023 season all marketing materials were refreshed with a new in house style created giving a strong confident design. The advertisement board at Largs was in need of replacement and thanks to local Waverley supporter Alan Graham a new board was produced capturing the rebranded style of marketing.
During 2023 dogs were carried for the first time in many years. This proved popular with over 500 dogs travelling across the season. Dog owners are requested to book a place in advance on selected sailings. As a rule of thumb dogs can travel for a flat fare of £5 on sailings which don’t include a coach return and with a maximum time on board at around 3.5 hours.
Waverley’s crew gather on the pier at Tighnabruaich during the final sailing of the 2023 season.
As one of the most successful years in Waverley’s preservation year closes she is berthed “bow upriver” at Pacific Quay. 2024 marks the 20th Anniversary since Waverley moved from Anderston Quay to the Glasgow Science Centre. The Companies office remains at Anderston Quay about half a mile upriver.
Accolades in 2023 include Waverley being awarded Gold Status with Visit Wales, being included in seven of the UK’s best boat trips and being awarded best visitor attraction experience by Best of Scotland Reader’s Choice awards.
Statistics show the ship carried the greatest number of passengers since 2003. In total 157,402 passenger journeys were recorded across 124 days in service giving 1,269 journeys a day on average. This generated an average revenue of over £37,000 per sailing day. (2022 was under £27,000 per day earnings.)
Given that the ship has now re-established herself across all sailings areas following the boiler refit and pandemic an independent Economic Impact Assessment has been commissioned, the results of which are expected in the coming months. This will show Waverley’s economic benefit to the UK and Scottish economies, and helps strengthen her case for financial support. While 2023 has generated an operating surplus to meet basic maintenance costs the ship will never generate sufficient income to meet major renewals. Ongoing support will be needed to keep Waverley at sea in the years ahead, an element of luck and good favour is also required!
Headline Costs in 2023 (rounded):
Crew – £775,000
Fuel – £700,000
Catering & Shop Purchases – £410,000
Berthing and Pilotage – £320,000
Coaches and passenger transfers – £170,000
Marketing – £150,000
In season Renewals and Repairs – £150,000
If asked what made 2023 a success it was all elements – timetabling, marketing, technical, crewing, weather, ports / piers – coming together with some good fortune. Waverley is a well established brand with a high profile and unique selling point, but her continued operation relies on donors, supporters, customers, volunteers, staff and crew.
Looking to 2024 and Waverley is booked to dry dock in Greenock in April before her first passenger sailing on Friday 17th May. Timetables will be released area-by-area from February with the new season kicking off with three days on the Clyde before the ship makes her annual trip to Oban on Monday 20th May. The Bristol Channel will see 3 weeks of sailings in June with two further ports being added to the itinerary to build on the outstanding success of 2023. In late August Waverley will offer her first sailings this century in the South West with Plymouth and several other ports featuring. Given the exceptional level of interest created by an innovative sailing programme in 2023 the 2024 timetable will be equally exciting with further ports of call added to the itinerary.
Bookings will open as the timetables are released for each area. To ensure you receive details as timetables are released you can sign up for Waverley e-newsletters online. PSPS members will also receive details by email.
I would like to thank and acknowledge all those who have provided images which have been used in this post in supporting Waverley’s continued operation.
