Waverley – Western Isles 2014

Supporting the preservation and operation of paddle steamers Waverley and Kingswear Castle

Waverley – Western Isles 2014

Waverley performed faultlessly during her eight-day programme of cruises in the Western Isles of Scotland. Passenger loadings appeared to be on par with 2013 and whilst the weather was markedly better that last year, grey skies and rain showers were a recurring theme.

Echoing the public address announcement made on behalf of the passengers during the return trip to the Clyde, thanks are due to Captain O’Brian, the officers and crew for a successful and enjoyable eight days in the Western Isles.

timetable

Day 1: Tuesday 27th May

Glasgow – Greenock – Lochranza – Port Ellen – Oban

Waverley, with the usual gentle assistance from the tug Biter, departed Pacific Quay on schedule and paddled down the Clyde for Greenock. The day will forever be known by those on board as the ‘The Great Fleece Day of 2014’ as the souls swapped their outer garments for one of the new and stylish Waverley fleece jackets. Down in the souvenir shop the shopkeepers’ arms were moving faster than Waverley’s connecting rods as they sold one fleece after another after another.

With Campbeltown pier unavailable Waverley called at Lochranza and Port Ellen en route to Oban.

Waverley at Port Ellen.

Waverley at Port Ellen.|Roy Tait

A heavy rain shower greeted the arrival in to Oban where passengers dispersed with more haste than usual to their respective coaches, B&Bs, hotels and in one notable instance, tent.

Day 2: Wednesday 28th May

Oban – Armadale – Mallaig – Inverie – Armadale – Mallaig – Kyle of Lochalsh
Two weeks earlier Waverley shared Garvel Dry Dock with SD Moorfowl. The two were re-united again in Oban Bay.

Two weeks earlier Waverley shared Garvel Dry Dock with SD Moorfowl. The two were re-united again in Oban Bay.|Roy Tait

Compagnie du Ponant's Le Boréal at Armadale. She was built in 2010 and has the equivalent of one crew member for every two of her 264 passengers.

Compagnie du Ponant’s Le Boréal at Armadale. She was built in 2010 and has the equivalent of one crew member for every two of her 264 passengers.|Roy Tait

Le Boréal and Waverley at Armadale.

Le Boréal and Waverley at Armadale.|David Shirres

Coruisk shows off her rebuilt bow visor following her close encounter with Dunoon Pier in March 2014. The campus of Sabhal Mòr Ostaig college is in the background to the right. The college is a National Centre for Gaelic language and culture.

Coruisk shows off her rebuilt bow visor following her close encounter with Dunoon Pier in March 2014. The campus of Sabhal Mòr Ostaig college is in the background to the right. The college is a National Centre for Gaelic language and culture.|Roy Tait

Waverley steams towards Inverie.

Waverley steams towards Inverie.|David Shirres

Passengers quaff a quick pint at The Old Forge, Inverie.

Passengers quaff a quick pint at The Old Forge, Inverie.|Roy Tait

Lochnevis at Mallaig. Coruisk can just be seen at Armadale. The mountain in the background is Blà Bheinn or Blaven.

Lochnevis at Mallaig. Coruisk can just be seen at Armadale. The mountain in the background is Blà Bheinn or Blaven.|Roy Tait

Day 3: Thursday 29th May

Kyle of Lochalsh – Portree – Gairloch – Portree – Kyle of Lochalsh
Paddling under the Skye Bridge towards Portree.

Paddling under the Skye Bridge towards Portree.|David Shirres

The diesel-electric hybrid ferry Hallaig departing from Churchton Bay. Raasay House is in the background.

The diesel-electric hybrid ferry Hallaig departing from Churchton Bay. Raasay House is in the background.|Roy Tait

Waverley adds a splash of colour to Portree harbour.

Waverley adds a splash of colour to Portree harbour.|David Shirres

A good turnout at Gairloch for the short cruise towards Loch Torridon.

A good turnout at Gairloch for the short cruise towards Loch Torridon. |Roy Tait

Leaving Gairloch.

Leaving Gairloch.|Roy Tait

The Lochalsh Junior Pipe Band welcomed Waverley to Kyle of Lochalsh.

The Lochalsh Junior Pipe Band welcomed Waverley to Kyle of Lochalsh.|Roy Tait

Day 4: Friday 30th May

Kyle of Lochalsh – Raasay – Portree – Raasay – Portree – Kyle of Lochalsh – Tobermory
Approaching Portree. A few moments later some dolphins appeared off the port bow to escort Waverley in to the pier.

Approaching Portree. A few moments later some dolphins appeared off the port bow to escort Waverley in to the pier.|Roy Tait

On the Isle of Rona, north of Raasay, a widow named Janet Mackenzie had for many years shown a light in one of her windows which enabled fishing boats to clear the rocks at the harbour entrance, and she had been given a grant of £20 by the Northern Lighthouse Board Commissioners. The present light designed by David Stevenson opened in 1857. The Torridon mountains visible in the background are on the mainland

On the Isle of Rona, north of Raasay, a widow named Janet Mackenzie had for many years shown a light in one of her windows which enabled fishing boats to clear the rocks at the harbour entrance, and she had been given a grant of £20 by the Northern Lighthouse Board Commissioners. The present light designed by David Stevenson opened in 1857. The Torridon mountains visible in the background are on the mainland|David Shirres

Waverley departing Kyle of Lochalsh for Tobermory.

Waverley departing Kyle of Lochalsh for Tobermory.|David Shirres

The evening sail from Kyle of Lochalsh to Tobermory around Ardnamurchan Point was idyllic with the weather getting better and better, ample reward for those who had chosen to sail with the ship and were not dissuaded by the late hour of the arrival nor the early departure next day.

The Glenelg - Kylerhea Skye ferry Glenachulish, the last turntable ferry in the UK, was repainted over the winter in the livery she bore when she first entered service at Ballachulish.

The Glenelg – Kylerhea Skye ferry Glenachulish, the last turntable ferry in the UK, was repainted over the winter in the livery she bore when she first entered service at Ballachulish.|Roy Tait

The Norwegian registered Viktoria Viking live fish carrier near Ardnamurchan Point.

The Norwegian registered Viktoria Viking live fish carrier near Ardnamurchan Point.|Roy Tait

It is of course a popular misconception that Ardnamurchan Point is the most westerly point on the British mainland. In fact that honour belongs to Corrachadh Mòr three quarters of a mile south of Alan Stevenson’s granite lighthouse.

A photographer captures the sun setting over the Ardnamurchan Peninsula.

A photographer captures the sun setting over the Ardnamurchan Peninsula.|Roy Tait

Day 5: Saturday 31st May

Tobermory – Oban – Armadale – Inverie – Armadale – Oban

The walk to the ship under cloudless skies was reminiscent of one particular scene in the movie ‘Whisky Galore!’; a solitary church bell punctured the 7am silence as suddenly lots of people emerged from doorways all around the town to converge on the pier. The incessant rumble of trundling luggage broke the spell.

Tobermory Bay, blue sky and a waiting paddle steamer, the perfect way to start the day.

Tobermory Bay, blue sky and a waiting paddle steamer, the perfect way to start the day.|Roy Tait

Out in the Sound of Mull the mist closed in around the ship.

Out in the Sound of Mull the mist closed in around the ship.|Roy Tait

Oban emerging from the mist.

Oban emerging from the mist.|Roy Tait

Coruisk makes smoke as Waverley departs Armadale for another visit to Inverie.

Coruisk makes smoke as Waverley departs Armadale for another visit to Inverie.|Roy Tait

Day 6: Sunday 1st June

Oban – four lochs cruise & a whirlpool – Oban / Castles & Ceilidh Cruise

With the cruise liner Astor anchored in Oban Bay Dirk gently canted Waverley.

Waverley taking bunkers at North Pier whilst the cruise ship Astor drifts at anchor in Oban Bay.

Waverley taking bunkers at North Pier whilst the cruise ship Astor drifts at anchor in Oban Bay.|Roy Tait

The evening ‘Castles & Ceilidh’ cruise brought together passengers ranging in age from a barely dressed 18 up to a sprightly 103. Trail West evidenced why they had been recognised as Scottish Dance Band of the Year 2013 by filling the floor of the Jeanie Deans lounge. A great evening was had by all.

Trail West provided the entertainment during the evening Castles & Ceilidh Cruise.

Trail West provided the entertainment during the evening Castles & Ceilidh Cruise.|Roy Tait

Happy passengers disembark at after the Ceilidh cruise.

Happy passengers disembark at after the Ceilidh cruise.|David Shirres

Day 7: Monday 2nd June

Oban – Iona – Oban

The passage to Iona became increasing lively until the ship entered the more sheltered waters of the Sound of Iona. The anchor was dropped and one of Gordon Grant’s boats came along side. The skipper of the tender was not happy that the passenger transfer could be conducted in total safety so regrettably – but correctly – the landing at Iona was called off. Waverley weighted anchor and completed a circumnavigation of Mull during her returning to Oban.

The Calmac ferry Loch Buie crossing a choppy Sound of Iona.

The Calmac ferry Loch Buie crossing a choppy Sound of Iona.|Roy Tait

Back at North Pier Lord of the Glens stood off from her berth as Waverley’s mildly moistened passengers disembarked. Waverley promptly departed for her overnight anchorage in Craignure Bay.

Day 8: Tuesday 3rd June

Oban – Port Ellen – Tarbert – Largs

Lord of the Glens once again vacated the berth at North Pier to allow Waverley’s self-loading cargo to board for the final sailing of the Western Isles programme. The early morning drizzle of Oban Bay quickly subsided and the weather steadily improved as Waverley steamed south making good time.

Lord of the Glens moved off her berth at North Pier to allow Waverley to embark her passengers.

Lord of the Glens moved off her berth at North Pier to allow Waverley to embark her passengers.|David Shirres

Waverley arrives at North Pier after anchoring overnight in Craignure Bay.

Waverley arrives at North Pier after anchoring overnight in Craignure Bay.|David Shirres

Approaching Port Ellen Captain O’Brian announced that the advertised call would not be made because of the unavailability of pier staff.

Calmac's other hybrid ferry Lochinvar in her second week of revenue-earning service approach Tarbert.

Calmac’s other hybrid ferry Lochinvar in her second week of revenue-earning service approach Tarbert.|Roy Tait

Back in the lower Firth of Clyde the MacBraynes pennant that had graced the bridge for several days was lowered and replaced by the usual pilot exception flag. That wasn’t enough though to stop the Pilot boat speeding out to greet the ship as it passed Hunterston. It was interesting to note the Pilot boat also flew a pilot exception flag. With at least one pilot visible on board should it have been flying a pilot on board flag? Discuss.

Waverley was welcomed back to Largs by one of the Clyde pilot boats.

Waverley was welcomed back to Largs by one of the Clyde pilot boats.|Roy Tait

Having not made the planned call at Islay the ship arrived just over an hour early at Largs where all the passengers disembarked. The goodbyes, thank-yous, see-you-soons and nice fleece were of necessity brief as many had a train to catch.

Journey's end. Passengers beat a hasty retreat down Largs Pier towards the ferry and railway station.

Journey’s end. Passengers beat a hasty retreat down Largs Pier towards the ferry and railway station.|David Shirres

Whilst the 1952 ScotRail ‘Waverley Stopper’ sped intermittently from Largs to Glasgow Central, Waverley steamed light ship to Greenock to berth overnight. Next morning, having shed most of her crew, she sailed back up the Clyde to Pacific Quay where she will remain in the care of engineers and volunteers until her next advertised sailing on Sunday 22nd June.

There are more photographs of Waverley in the Western Isles on the Flickr pages of David Shirres here and Roy Tait here.

Also enjoy the blog posting ‘Doon the Watter – Skye Style’ by Skye-based photographer and self-confused Waverley lover Andrew Woodhouse here.

“The Mighty Paddler in a Majestic Landscape” Video

Keith Robertson walked up The Storr on Skye to film this short but dramatic clip of Waverley in the Sound of Raasay.

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“Paddles from Kyle” Video

Alasdair MacKenzie has produced this 30 minute video record of the cruises from Kyle of Lochalsh to Portree, Gairloch and the circumnavigation of the islands of Raasay and Rona.

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P.S. When next on on board Waverley be sure to purchase one of the desirable and popular Waverley fleeces before they sell out. Do it quickly as it is likely “that there are only two left in your size.”